The first thing to understand about the northern lights around Murmansk is that the colour is not the first problem. Clouds are. Then road conditions, wind, moonlight, solar activity, patience and the simple fact that the sky does not owe[...]
Kamchatka teaches distance before it teaches beauty. On a map, the peninsula can look like a dramatic but manageable shape. On the ground, travel depends on roads that do not go everywhere, weather that changes decisions, helicopters[...]
Sochi makes sense only when it is allowed to be two trips at once. The city stretches along the Black Sea, but the mountains stand so close behind it that a good itinerary should move between both. A visitor can walk a seaside promenade, pass[...]
The Golden Ring is often sold as a neat loop northeast of Moscow, a string of old towns with domes, monasteries and wooden houses. The real journey is less tidy and much better. It is not one road and not one mood. It is a region of medieval[...]
Kazan is one of Russia's best weekend cities because it does not ask the visitor to choose between monument and daily life. The Kremlin rises over the water with white walls, towers, the Kul Sharif Mosque and the Annunciation Cathedral,[...]